For example, I use Aleene’s Tacky Glue for pretty much everything because it’s super cheap and works for me.  I purchased my last bottle for a whopping $0.92, and it’s lasted me for about a year now.  Now, some people might not like to use it because the tip always gets clogged and it doesn’t dry as quickly as some of the “designed especially for paper crafting” liquid glues.  However, I simply keep a little plastic tray with my bottle and every time I use the glue I completely unscrew the top of the bottle and pour a little into the tray, and then use a toothpick to spread it wherever I want to use it.  I don’t mind throwing away the glue I’ve poured out that day but didn’t use because it’s so stickin’ cheap!  Plus, I’m also a pretty patient person so I don’t mind waiting for the glue to dry.  I usually have something else to work on anyway! 

So, yes, it can be a little bit more of a hassle sometimes to use the cheap stuff instead of the specialized products that might come in easier to use forms, but you just need to figure out what things you’re willing to skimp on and what things you aren’t.  However, I will offer this caveat emptor: sometimes the cheap stuff really doesn’t work.  Sometimes the reason it’s cheap is because it is just not a high quality product, and has nothing to do with the packaging or other negotiable qualities.  But, if you try the cheap stuff first and find it doesn’t work, at least you won’t have wasted that much money!

Die-cutters everywhere!  It seems that die-cutting machines are the “accessory of the day” that every paper crafter is talking about.  There are some really amazing machines on the market right now, but how do you know which one is for you?  I was recently asked by a crafty girl-friend to explain the differences and similarities between the major die-cutting machines currently available.  So for anyone else who is curious and/or confused, read on.  I hope this helps!

This is a big topic, so to keep from overwhelming you (a “talent” I seem to posses - just ask my husband!) I think I’m going to break things up into several posts.  Feel free to comment upon anything I write and add your two cents worth of knowledge.  I’d love to hear from you!

First, I think it might help to talk about the basic design of a die-cutting machine.  Once you understand how a machine functions, you will be able to better see the benefits and detriments of each design. 

There are three ways a machine can cut shapes out of paper, two of them are manual and one is electronic.  The manual machines all use dies, which are hard plastic discs containing metal blade edges that are surrounded by foam. 

The two manual ways of depressing the foam to expose the metal blade to the material to be cut are:

(1) lever-press action –
a lever that you press down which squeezes the die and material to be cut that you place under it.

(2) rotary (rolling) action -
a handle that you turn, which engages a roller that pulls the die and material through, squeezing it along the way.  

The electronic method of cutting shapes out of paper doesn’t use dies, so it’s technically not called a die-cutting machine at all.  However, it does create the same result, namely, shapes and letters cut out  without you having to lift a pair of scissors.  So the electronic machines are usually grouped with the die-cutters, but are called “personal cutters,” or something along those lines.  These personal cutting machines have a single blade attached to an arm which is controlled electronically.  You buy special cartridges or discs which contain the electronic data that tells the blade how to cut the material placed under it.  It’s similar to how a CD or disc works in your computer.  

Okay, so now we (hopefully) understand how die-cutting machines work!  My next posts will cover the pluses and minuses of each method as I discuss some of the most popular machines on the market right now.  Stay tuned!

My big Christmas gift this year was the Big Shot die-cutting machine by Ellison Design. This thing is
fantastic! You can be sure I’ll be posting more about this machine as I start to use it!

I also got a gift card which I used to buy the Making Memories Instant Setter. This is proving to be a really great tool! I also got the Slot Punching tool set that is designed to be used with the Instant Setter. I’ll be posting more on both of these later too.

Happy Crafting!

]]> http://paperwoods.com/2007/01/06/a-crafters-christmas/feed/ 0 http://paperwoods.com/2006/10/24/basic-supplies-for-the-paper-crafting-beginner-part-iv/ http://paperwoods.com/2006/10/24/basic-supplies-for-the-paper-crafting-beginner-part-iv/#comments Tue, 24 Oct 2006 02:32:08 +0000 Kate http://paperwoods.com/2006/10/24/basic-supplies-for-the-paper-crafting-beginner-part-iv/ After much delay, the final installment of my four-part series is finally here! Part IV is dedicated to the tools used to write and/or add color to our creations. Color is a big part of what gets me excited about paper crafting – I don’t think I could ever have enough markers or ink pads to satisfy my craving for more color options when I’m creating!

Part IV: Writing and Coloring Tools

Pencil = keeping a regular pencil – not colored – on hand is always a good idea. You might be surprised how often you use it to mark or measure things, and nothing is more frustrating than not being able to find one when you need it! Use one that writes lightly and is easy to erase.

Eraser = a good, high quality eraser is also a must! Nothing spoils a good piece like going back to erase pencil lines once you’re finished, and smearing all your hard work or tearing the paper! There are a couple different styles of erasers that work well; currently in my drawer (hidden from my husband!) is a Magic Rub by Sanford.

Colored pencils = great for shading and filling in lettering or stamped images. Special watercolor pencils are great for blending and creating soft watercolor effects with special blending pencils, water brushes, or blender pens, or just a plain brush and a cup of water.

Pens and Markers = choose wisely for each purpose! Choose not only the color, but also the type of ink (permanent, watercolor, metallic, etc.), and nib (fine point, chisel, brush tip, etc.) Not all pens and markers are created equal! Some will not work at all on glossy surfaces, where others will “fan” out or bleed on heavier grained surfaces. Always test a pen or marker on an identical surface to your project before you use it, each time!

Chalk = chalk is really fun to use to add soft touches of color to your art work. It comes in as many colors as you can imagine, as well as metallic and “shimmer” varieties. It is easy to apply with cotton swabs or special applicators, and is also easy to blend. One word of caution: chalk on your art work will smear and rub off, even long after it’s been applied, so it’s necessary to seal it with a fixative, such as hair spray or a clear finish spray like Krylon offers. The advantage of using a finish spray like Krylon is that it will keep your art work acid free and archival safe.

Paint = paint can be a fun medium to explore. Basic acrylic paints are cheap and easy to find, and work great with foam stamps, as well as brushes and sponges. Acrylics are also great for blending to create just the right shade of color, and they wash up easily with warm water.

Ink pads = ink pads are the most commonly used coloring medium in rubber stamping, and thus are prevalent in the larger paper crafting world as well. There are two main types of ink found in ink pads: dye and pigment. Dye ink is a great all around ink; it dries quickly and works very well on most surfaces. Pigment ink, on the other hand, takes a long time to dry. This quality might not seem desirable in most situations, but the fact that it stays wet longer allows it to be used for heat embossing, where you sprinkle a powder over the stamped image while it is still wet, shake off the excess, and then heat the image with a heat gun to melt the powder, creating a raised image. Pigment ink can be used when you do not wish to heat emboss, but usually requires being “set” with a heat gun. There is one more type of ink worth mentioning, and that is solvent ink. The most popular brand of solvent ink is StazOn. It is specially formulated for use on non-porous surfaces, such as glass, ceramic tile, metal, shrink plastic, etc. I also recommend using StazOn when you want to stamp an image and then watercolor over it. Since StazOn is permanent, it will not bleed or blend when doing your watercoloring.

 

]]> http://paperwoods.com/2006/10/24/basic-supplies-for-the-paper-crafting-beginner-part-iv/feed/ 0 http://paperwoods.com/2006/08/25/basic-supplies-for-the-paper-crafting-beginner-part-iii/ http://paperwoods.com/2006/08/25/basic-supplies-for-the-paper-crafting-beginner-part-iii/#comments Fri, 25 Aug 2006 01:01:40 +0000 Kate http://paperwoods.com/2006/08/25/basic-supplies-for-the-paper-crafting-beginner-part-iii/ The third instalment of my “supplies for beginners” series is all about adhesives. This can be a very sticky, and confusing, topic – even for old-timers! With the variety of embellishments and materials paper crafters are using these days the adhesives industry has become very specialized. There are different glues for adhering metal, fabric, plastic, glitter, and all sorts of paper; but all adhesives generally fall within four categories.

Part III: Adhesives

Dry adhesives = double sided tapes, photo mount squares, foam pop dots or pop squares (to add dimension), and tape runners (like Mono Adhesive) or similar glue dispensers, are all types of dry adhesives. These all work great for gluing paper to paper, and other lighter weight embellishments to paper. Many crafters love using glue dots (like Zots) for adhering buttons and ribbon to their projects.

Wet adhesives = this is where you will get into more specialized (and expensive!) items. Each glue is made for bonding different materials, from metal and wood, to glitter and beads. Read all directions and recommendations! Each crafter has his or her favorite glue for different purposes, but an all-purpose wet glue, like Aleene’s Tacky Glue, is always good to have around and will work for many sticky situations.

Glue sticks = to me, these fall in between the wet and dry categories, but are wonderful to have around. They won’t buckle or warp the paper, don’t require much dry time, and are easy to use. Use for gluing paper to paper.

Repositionable = consider getting a repositionable glue to hold templates and stencils in place; the chances of “ruining” a piece due to an unexpected bump are significantly decreased! The sticky stuff left on your project after removing something adhered with repositionable glue will rub right off with your fingers, leaving no marks or sticky spots! Many of the tape runners and glue dispensers now offer a repositionable option as well as permanent.

]]> http://paperwoods.com/2006/08/25/basic-supplies-for-the-paper-crafting-beginner-part-iii/feed/ 0 http://paperwoods.com/2006/08/20/basic-supplies-for-the-paper-crafting-beginner-part-ii/ http://paperwoods.com/2006/08/20/basic-supplies-for-the-paper-crafting-beginner-part-ii/#comments Sun, 20 Aug 2006 14:55:07 +0000 Kate http://paperwoods.com/2006/08/20/basic-supplies-for-the-paper-crafting-beginner-part-ii/ Part two of my four-part series on basic supplies for paper crafters is dedicated to cutting tools. Though there is not as much variety in this category as there is in paper, it can still be daunting to figure out what you really need as a beginner. So here’s a list of the very basic cutting tools every paper crafter should have.

Part II: Cutting Tools

Self-Healing Cutting mat = A Must! If you’re going to be working with a lot of larger sized papers (12″ x 12″) consider getting a cutting mat at least as big, if not bigger, than your paper. This will allow you to make full cuts without having to move your paper or ruler half-way through a cut. A self-healing cutting mat will also serve as a setting mat when setting eyelets or snaps, and protect your table top from scratches or dings.

Craft knife = use for fine detail cutting in tight spots or corners, or with a metal-edged ruler for straight cuts (a craft knife will cut through plastic rulers, giving you an uneven edge). There are so many different styles and varieties of craft knives out there now, it’s best just to experiment and find what’s the most comfortable for you.

Scissors = it’s good to have two pairs of scissors, one with longer blades for cutting larger areas more smoothly and efficiently, and one with shorter blades for detail and precision cuts. Be careful to use non-stick coated scissors when cutting through adhesives, or regularly clean the blades with an adhesive remover. As with craft knives, there are many different styles and shapes of scissors available, so look around and find pairs that are the most comfortable for your fingers.

Paper Trimmer = can be the kind with an arm that you lower (called a guillotine), or with a blade that you slide along a track. Paper trimmers are great for cutting straight lines more quickly and easily than with craft knives or scissors. Small ones (5″x7″) are easy to store and carry with you, but realize that you won’t be able to cut larger pieces of paper with them. A full-sized one (12″x12″) is helpful.

]]> http://paperwoods.com/2006/08/20/basic-supplies-for-the-paper-crafting-beginner-part-ii/feed/ 0 http://paperwoods.com/2006/08/14/basic-supplies-for-the-paper-crafting-beginner-a-four-part-series/ http://paperwoods.com/2006/08/14/basic-supplies-for-the-paper-crafting-beginner-a-four-part-series/#comments Mon, 14 Aug 2006 02:37:21 +0000 Kate http://paperwoods.com/2006/08/14/basic-supplies-for-the-paper-crafting-beginner-a-four-part-series/ I remember when I first started paper crafting. It all started very simply with an innocent walk down the rubber stamp aisle of a craft store while shopping with my mother. We ogled over a couple of Christmas image stamps and decided it would be fun to make some bookmarks as gifts for my friends and family. We looked around a bit more trying to decide what all I’d need, and I soon became a little overwhelmed – how on earth does one use all these products and tools! I admit I was very excited about it, but also confused about all the options. There were so many products that seemed to have very little, to no differences!
The variety of paper crafting products available now is staggering compared to what it was back in the mid 90s, so I thought it might be good to start a conversation about the basic supplies we use in our craft. I’ll start by listing the different kinds of products available in each of four general categories: paper, cutting tools, adhesives, and writing and coloring tools.

Part I: Paper – the essence of paper crafts!

Regular weight = most of the beautiful printed and patterned paper you see in craft and scrapbooking stores is regular, non cardstock weight paper. It can do almost anything you want it to! In single layers it is great for collage and decoupage, or glued together it can hold up and add stiffness much like cardstock.

Cardstock = mostly sold in solid colors it is mainly used for the base of a card, but also does well with punches and other elements requiring more stiffness, like dry embossing. Printed cardstock is becoming more and more popular, as is cardstock with a textured surface.

Mulberry = a thin, decorative paper, slightly transparent with organic fibers. Great for tearing and matting, creates a soft look while adding texture.

Vellum = a thin parchment like paper, translucent to varying degrees, comes in many colors and tints. It is great for layering and adding a more sophisticated look.

These are the basic, most commonly used types of paper in the paper crafting world, but there are many, many other varieties out there; handmade, double sided, origami, leather, velvet… the list is seemingly infinite. Don’t be afraid to experiment!

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